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Entries in noise (2)


Canon EOS 600d / Rebel T3i vs 350d / Rebel XT Noise & Detail Test

Please watch the video full-screen and at the highest resolution. (I had a hot chocolate just before the video, so my apologies. That's HD for you.)

(If you can't see the video, please click here.)

I've been taking a few shots with my new Canon EOS 600d / Digital Rebel T3i over the last few days, you know, the usual thing, nipping out at lunch from work to snap a few frames. However I felt it was time to start doing a little testing - to see if the sensor on the 600d was indeed better than the one on my old 350d, to see if it produced less noise and more detail.

The answer in case you don't want to watch through the video or read the rest of the article, is yes. At all ISO's the 600d's sensor creates appreciably less noise, and the extra megapixels mean that an awful lot more detail is captured too, meaning that it's possible to crop a lot closer and still have plenty of pixels left for a decent image.

This isn't a scientific test. I've done it so that if you're thinking of upgrading your old Canon dSLR, especially a 350d / Rebel XT, to a 600d / T3i, you'll be able to watch the above video, or look at the below comparison photographs and you'll be able to see the real difference in ISO performance and the level of detail captured by both cameras.

I want you to also bear in mind that the 350d, although only having an 8mp sensor, takes beautiful photographs, and at ISO 100 and 200 there isn't that much difference in the levels of noise.

To do the ISO and detail photographs, I mounted the cameras, one after the other, on a tripod with the same lens and same LED ring light. I used the 18-55 kit lens at f/8 and used manual focus and auto white-balance. I shot .jpg's and did the cropping in Photoshop.

The photos you see on this page can be clicked on so you can look at the full resolution versions, which I heartily recommend. The crops are zooms to 100%, so you can easily see the extra detail that the 600d / Rebel XT captures (the clock is bigger), but also take a look at the slightly out of focus wall area, where you can see the differences in the amount and type of noise from both cameras.

Right, lets get started, here's the full photos from the 350d take at ISO 100, then at ISO 400 then ISO 1600: (Click on the photos for the full size images.)



Now let's look at the shots from the 600d / Rebel T3i, at ISO 100, 400 and ISO 1600: (Click on 'em for full size photographs.)


Right, so you're thinking that these photos were OK, but it's a little difficult to compare the performance of both cameras, so I've taken 100% crops from the images and stacked them together so that you can more easily see the difference between the two sensors.

In this first collage, you've got ISO 100 on the left and 200 on the right, with the 350d on the top and the 600d on the bottom: (Click for full size).

Here's ISO 400 (left) and 800 (right) with the 350d on top, 600d underneath:

This is just ISO 1600, 350d on top, 600d on bottom.

Finally, these two are just the 600d, at ISO 3200 and 6400:


In conclusion then the Canon EOS 600d / Digital Rebel T3i has significantly better noise performance than my old 350d / Rebel XT. The 600d also captures way more detail with its much larger sensor, enabling much closer crops.

I hope this post helps if you're thinking about upgrading your dSLR.

Thanks, Rob.


Noise And ISO Test On Canon EOS 350d / Digital Rebel XT dSLR

Let's face it, of the three pillars that make up exposure in photography, ISO is the boring one, and the one that spoils the party.

Shutter speed is cool. You can freeze time, stopping a droplet of water mid-air as it splashes upward from a glass. You can stretch time with a long shutter speed, blurring clouds, the sea, and even people. If you pan while using a longer shutter speed you can bring a real sense of movement to your images, making the background blur as a race-car speeds past.

Aperture is King. Tighten up your aperture and keep everything in your photograph sharp, for an Ansel Adams like depth of field, letting the viewer marvel at the intricate details they see before them. Or perhaps open up your aperture, forcing everything in your photo blurred, while keeping your main subject in sharp focus. Magical.

ISO however, apparently has little artistic value when you change it. ISO is how sensitive your camera is to light, and in the digital SLR world we can simply increase our ISO so we can shoot in lower light, keeping our shutter speeds up to avoid camera shake or movement blur in our subjects. There is an unfortunate side-effect to this - noise.

In the old days of film if you wanted to shoot with a higher ISO you had to change the film in your camera, and higher ISO film usually had larger grain, and in digital cameras we have a similar problem, noise. As we increase our ISO our photos have more "speckles" in them. Details start to become lost, colours become muted, and the quality of the photograph diminishes rapidly. Or does it?

Let me back-track a little and explain the relationship between Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO when it comes to working out Exposure, or how bright or dark a photo will turn out. To obtain an "acceptable" level of exposure (or brightness) in a photo, we have to let a certain amount of light into our camera. The amount of light that is let in, and hits our digital sensor, is governed by the Shutter Speed, which is how long the camera stays open to let the light in; Aperture, which is how big the hole is in the front of the camera that lets the light in; and ISO, which is how sensitive the camera is to that incoming light.

In all the modes on our cameras except Manual, our camera's help us obtain that "acceptable" exposure by juggling those three settings, usually with a bit of input from us. Lots of photographers, including myself, enjoy using Aperture Priority Mode, where I choose the size of hole (or f-stop) on the front of the camera. By using this mode I can control the depth-of-field in my photographs, having everything sharp, just my subject, or something in-between. As I change the aperture, my camera adjusts the shutter speed to keep the exposure (brightness of my photo) OK.

The problem comes when I'm shooting hand-held. If it starts getting dark, or I use a small aperture, my camera will choose a shutter speed that is too slow. I can't tell you the number of times I've got home to look at photos on my PC only to discover that loads are blurry because I've let the shutter speed drop too much - especially when I've been using longer focal length lenses and zooms.

(A quick hint here - never, ever, trust the LCD screen on the back of your camera to judge sharpness. That screen makes everything look sharp!)

The answer to this is to increase your ISO as soon as your shutter speeds drops below a certain amount. There's a simple way to work this out - if your're shooting hand-held with a 50mm lens, you don't want your shutter speed to drop below 1/50th of a second. If you're shooting with your zoom at 200mm (look on the lens barrel) you don't want to drop below 1/200th of a second. If you're at 500mm, don't go below 1/500th. Easy.

(Or of course use a tripod, but that won't eliminate the blur if your subject is moving).

I'm rubbish at doing this. Maybe its years of reading books and magazines, and listening to Podcasts where the advice is to always shoot at the lowest ISO setting your camera allows. It's meant to give the best photo image quality, and heck, I've even said so myself many times. It's like I'm locked into believing that I can get sharp shots from a 300mm lens handheld at 1/100th, if I just try harder, but that isn't ever going to happen, its just an impossible task. I need to bump up my ISO!

In order to free myself of this hang-up I resolved to take some test images with my Canon EOS 350d / Digital Rebel XT, at all the different ISO's it offers. I wanted a dull, overcast day, because that's what its like in England most of the time, and its also the occasion when I need those higher ISO's. I wanted to really get to know what images shot at ISO 800 and 1600 actually looked like, to see if my phobia of those levels was justified or not.

Here's the result:
Canon EOS 350d / Digital Rebel XT ISO Test

Wait a minute! Don't get disappointed. You can't see any detail in the above photo, you need to see the original to get an idea about the different qualities of the various ISO's, and understand what the photo-montage is. What I did was to take a number of shots of the same scene, at various ISOs. When I got home I zoomed into 100% and copied the middle bit out of each photo and created what you see above.

The bottom right part is ISO 1600, but given the Noise Ninja treatment, a piece of software that does its best to reduce noise from inside Photoshop, Elements and I believe Lightroom. (Or you can get it as a stand-alone program too).

So now you know what the above photo is all about, take a look at the original.

Have a scroll around. Look at the ships hull and super-structure, the sky and the background, at the different ISOs. What do you think?

If you want to see the photo's of the different ISOs in more detail, I've uploaded all the originals to this Flickr set.

Other Things That Can Increase Noise In Your Photos

Sadly, ISO isn't the only thing that can make your photographs noisy. Any sort of post-processing - changing levels, curves or contrast will often amplify noise. HDR is notorious for being a "noisy" technique. Make sure you save, or export to, .jpg files at the highest possible quality setting, or you'll end up with the even worse "artefacts" which can ruin the cleanest of photographs. Make sure you've turned on "Long Exposure Noise Reduction" (in the custom settings on the 350d), or that'll degrade quality too. Here's a comprehensive list of the possible pitfalls.

My Conclusion

The higher ISO settings on my 350d / Rebel XT are not as bad as I thought they'd be. OK, I won't get any images accepted into Istockphoto if I shoot above ISO 200, but they're good enough for most of my needs. (Plus when printing out photos lots of noise just disappears). I'll no longer shy away from bumping up my ISO when I need to. I now know more about my camera and feel more confident in getting the most out of it in challenging lighting condtions. My ISO phobia is cured!

Cheers, Rob.